The Couto Mixto: a forgotten country
Microstate between Spain and Portugal
Territory without an owner
Imagine a place where, for centuries, people lived as if borders didn't exist! That was Couto Mixto, a territory on the border between Spain and Portugal that didn't fully belong to either country. Yes, it sounds like a made-up story, but it's completely real.
This medieval "tax haven" slowly disappeared. In 1868, Spain and Portugal decided that this micro-state no longer had a place on the modern map, so they signed an agreement to divide it between the two countries. Since then, Couto Mixto has been part of history... and legend!
Where is Couto Mixto?
Located in the region of Galicia, near the province of Ourense, the Couto Mixto was a kind of "free zone". For more than 700 years, this small territory of three villages (Santiago, Rubiás, and Meaus) enjoyed almost complete autonomy. The people who lived there decided whether to pay taxes to Spain, Portugal, or neither! They could also choose their own nationality. A paradise for rebels!
The Statue of the Last Xuíz: Symbol of Justice and Liberty
In the Couto Mixto, the "xuíz" (judge) was a fundamental figure, charged with ensuring order and justice in this small autonomous territory. A statue in Rubiás honors the last of these judges, Ángel Fernández Gómez, who held his office until the mid-19th century.
Church of Santiago de Rubiás: The heart of the Couto Mixto
This church, dedicated to the Apostle Saint James, is not only a place of worship but also a key center of community life. Built in the rural Galician style, with its simple yet imposing stone façade, it has witnessed centuries of history.
Churches and Cruceiros: Witnesses of History
The villages of Santiago, Rubiás, and Meaus boast small but charming churches, some of them built centuries ago. The cruceiros, those iconic stone crosses that stand at crossroads, are symbols of protection and guidance for travelers.
Exploring these places is like traveling back in time, where religion and daily life were intertwined in the region's culture.
No Passport, Yes Umbrella!
One of the most surprising privileges enjoyed by the inhabitants of Couto Mixto was that they could freely cross between Spain and Portugal without a passport or documents. But the most curious thing is that they also had another special "right": they could travel with goods without paying taxes, as long as they carried only one umbrella. That's right, the umbrella became a symbol of their freedom!
Couto Mixto today
Today, Couto Mixto is more of a historical curiosity than a famous tourist destination, but its free spirit lives on in the people who live there. You can still visit these villages and experience a bit of that independent vibe. You'll also discover spectacular landscapes, old churches, and traditions that have remained intact.
